Discussion:
no direct line of sight wifi
(too old to reply)
JustMike
2020-12-07 05:59:34 UTC
Permalink
Thanks in advance for any helpful answers, all info is in attachment.

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Jeff Liebermann
2020-12-07 15:56:18 UTC
Permalink
On Mon, 7 Dec 2020 05:59:34 -0000 (UTC), JustMike
Post by JustMike
Thanks in advance for any helpful answers, all info is in attachment.
https://i.postimg.cc/pL9MgCY5/WIFIPOST12-7-20.png
Un-helpful questions:

1. I suggest you REDUCE your transmit power to something that is
about the same as the wireless router to which you're trying to
connect. At 1 watt and with a parabolic dish antenna, you are
probably well over FCC and international EIRP limits.

2. If you're posting a JPG or PNG of your question so that it's not
searchable by Google or the FCC, I want no part of whatever you're
trying to accomplish, which I suspect is connect to someone else's
internet connection without permission.

3. Your homemade dish with the long omni antenna is likely a bad
design. Low gain antennas are easy. High gain antennas are tricky
and need to be calculated and properly tested. Without proper RF test
equipment, you are unlikely to design and build anything that works. A
proper dish antenna uses a fairly low gain but directional feed
antenna to illuminate the entire dish antenna. Using a high gain
antenna as a feed will only illuminate a small part of a dish. In
transmit, such an omni feed antenna will spray RF in many directions
EXCEPT onto the dish, or will cover only a small part of the dish,
drastically reducing the transmit gain.

4. Your PNG image lacks any usable numbers from which to do a path
loss calculation. If you really want an answer or sanity check,
kindly supply:
- Equipment list at both ends
- Description and gain of the endpoint antennas
- Length and type of coaxial cable (if any) to the dish
- Distances involved
- Height of path (for Fresnel Zone calculations)
- Approximate size of the steel door reflector
- 2.4 or 5 GHz?

5. If you want to run your own calculations, grind the path loss
numbers for between the dish and the steel door, use the result to
calculate a 2nd path between the steel door and that wireless router.
I posted an example many years ago in this newsgroup, but can't seem
to find it. Here's an example of a single hop calculation:
<https://groups.google.com/g/alt.internet.wireless/c/QL5IT6CmlsA/m/QIFdwU56ficJ>
I'll try again later to find a better example.
--
Jeff Liebermann ***@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
JustMike
2020-12-08 03:21:05 UTC
Permalink
Post by Jeff Liebermann
On Mon, 7 Dec 2020 05:59:34 -0000 (UTC), JustMike
Post by JustMike
Thanks in advance for any helpful answers, all info is in attachment.
https://i.postimg.cc/pL9MgCY5/WIFIPOST12-7-20.png
1. I suggest you REDUCE your transmit power to something that is
about the same as the wireless router to which you're trying to
connect. At 1 watt and with a parabolic dish antenna, you are
probably well over FCC and international EIRP limits.
Well your ASSumption is that I am in the USA and subject to that
(another) corrupt agency of the corrupt U.S. Gov. I am not. Yeah Trump!
Post by Jeff Liebermann
2. If you're posting a JPG or PNG of your question so that it's not
searchable by Google or the FCC, I want no part of whatever you're
trying to accomplish, which I suspect is connect to someone else's
internet connection without permission.
Better run and hide then.
Post by Jeff Liebermann
3. Your homemade dish with the long omni antenna is likely a bad
design. Low gain antennas are easy. High gain antennas are tricky
and need to be calculated and properly tested. Without proper RF test
equipment, you are unlikely to design and build anything that works. A
proper dish antenna uses a fairly low gain but directional feed
antenna to illuminate the entire dish antenna. Using a high gain
antenna as a feed will only illuminate a small part of a dish. In
transmit, such an omni feed antenna will spray RF in many directions
EXCEPT onto the dish, or will cover only a small part of the dish,
drastically reducing the transmit gain.
It's working well even bounced off a steel door at about a 45 degree
angle. I THOUGHT it was my antennas but it turns out it's probably an
ISP problem. They were out working on the lines but they are morons of
the worst ISP here in this crap Country.
Post by Jeff Liebermann
4. Your PNG image lacks any usable numbers from which to do a path
loss calculation. If you really want an answer or sanity check,
- Equipment list at both ends
- Description and gain of the endpoint antennas
- Length and type of coaxial cable (if any) to the dish
- Distances involved
- Height of path (for Fresnel Zone calculations)
- Approximate size of the steel door reflector
- 2.4 or 5 GHz?
You always make things too over complicated. As it turns out it probably
has nothing to do with my antennas and your overly complicated
calculations. It's the crap ISP.
Post by Jeff Liebermann
5. If you want to run your own calculations, grind the path loss
numbers for between the dish and the steel door, use the result to
calculate a 2nd path between the steel door and that wireless router.
I posted an example many years ago in this newsgroup, but can't seem
<https://groups.google.com/g/alt.internet.wireless/c/QL5IT6CmlsA/m/QIFd
wU56ficJ> I'll try again later to find a better example.
Thanks for answering. Don't make so many ASSumptions cuz you know what
that means. And don't accuse people you don't know of STEALING when you
have no evidence of that. I am not stealing the connection is done with
the main ISP account's owner.
JustMike
2020-12-11 09:22:18 UTC
Permalink
Post by JustMike
Post by Jeff Liebermann
On Mon, 7 Dec 2020 05:59:34 -0000 (UTC), JustMike
Post by JustMike
Thanks in advance for any helpful answers, all info is in attachment.
https://i.postimg.cc/pL9MgCY5/WIFIPOST12-7-20.png
1. I suggest you REDUCE your transmit power to something that is
about the same as the wireless router to which you're trying to
connect. At 1 watt and with a parabolic dish antenna, you are
probably well over FCC and international EIRP limits.
Well your ASSumption is that I am in the USA and subject to that
(another) corrupt agency of the corrupt U.S. Gov. I am not. Yeah Trump!
Post by Jeff Liebermann
2. If you're posting a JPG or PNG of your question so that it's not
searchable by Google or the FCC, I want no part of whatever you're
trying to accomplish, which I suspect is connect to someone else's
internet connection without permission.
Better run and hide then.
Post by Jeff Liebermann
3. Your homemade dish with the long omni antenna is likely a bad
design. Low gain antennas are easy. High gain antennas are tricky
and need to be calculated and properly tested. Without proper RF test
equipment, you are unlikely to design and build anything that works. A
proper dish antenna uses a fairly low gain but directional feed
antenna to illuminate the entire dish antenna. Using a high gain
antenna as a feed will only illuminate a small part of a dish. In
transmit, such an omni feed antenna will spray RF in many directions
EXCEPT onto the dish, or will cover only a small part of the dish,
drastically reducing the transmit gain.
It's working well even bounced off a steel door at about a 45 degree
angle. I THOUGHT it was my antennas but it turns out it's probably an
ISP problem. They were out working on the lines but they are morons of
the worst ISP here in this crap Country.
Post by Jeff Liebermann
4. Your PNG image lacks any usable numbers from which to do a path
loss calculation. If you really want an answer or sanity check,
- Equipment list at both ends
- Description and gain of the endpoint antennas
- Length and type of coaxial cable (if any) to the dish
- Distances involved
- Height of path (for Fresnel Zone calculations)
- Approximate size of the steel door reflector
- 2.4 or 5 GHz?
You always make things too over complicated. As it turns out it probably
has nothing to do with my antennas and your overly complicated
calculations. It's the crap ISP.
Post by Jeff Liebermann
5. If you want to run your own calculations, grind the path loss
numbers for between the dish and the steel door, use the result to
calculate a 2nd path between the steel door and that wireless router.
I posted an example many years ago in this newsgroup, but can't seem
<https://groups.google.com/g/alt.internet.wireless/c/QL5IT6CmlsA/m/QIFd
Post by JustMike
Post by Jeff Liebermann
wU56ficJ> I'll try again later to find a better example.
Thanks for answering. Don't make so many ASSumptions cuz you know what
that means. And don't accuse people you don't know of STEALING when you
have no evidence of that. I am not stealing the connection is done with
the main ISP account's owner.
For once the know it all has nothing to say....

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